Saturday, August 14, 2010

Cochin - God's own Country

Kochi (colonial name Cochin) is a vibrant city situated on the south-west coast of the Indian peninsula in the breathtakingly scenic and prosperous state of Kerala, hailed as 'God's Own Country'. Its strategic importance over the centuries is underlined by the sobriquet Queen of the Arabian Sea. Informally, Cochin is also referred to as the Gateway to Kerala.

In Kochi, dawn is not often a thing of breathtaking beauty, but just a careless smear of tinted light where sea and sky unite. Daybreak is full of indeterminate promise. A slow lividness at the mist-obscured harbor mouth meets the swelling untamed surge of the ocean. Cargo-laden barges and vellums or country boats move, ponderously slow, over the sprawling vastness of the Vembanad Kayal, Kerala's largest lake that spreads full bosomed and silver gray in the sultry sun.

LOCATION
Popularly referred to as the Queen of the Arabian Sea, Kochi is located on the west cost of India in the beautiful state of Kerala. The city can be regarded as the commercial and industrial capital of Kerala. The city extends from latitude 9°58' in the North to longitude 76°17' in the East.

BEST TIME TO VISIT
Being situated very close to the sea, Kochi has a moderate climate, with heavy rains during June-August due to the southwest monsoon. Winter starts from December and continues till February. In summer, the temperature rises to a maximum of 35°C and 25°C in the winters. Annual average rainfall is 310 cm.

HISTORY
Though Kochi had been an important roadstead in days gone by, it became a natural harbor only when nature decreed it so. Muziris (present-day Kodungalloor on the mouth of the Periyar River), 40 km north of Kochi, was the center of trade with ancient Rome in the products like pepper and pearls, fine silks, cotton, muslin, honey, oil, betel, tortoise shell, cinnamon leaf, black pepper, ginger grass, and indigo.

The formation of Kochi harbor has a violent story of which nature herself was the main character. The harbor was formed in A.D. 1341, when a great flood in the Periyar River led to an outlet in the sea. The floods had meanwhile silted up the mouth of the Muziris harbor and this rich ancient port was banished to the footnotes of history. Meanwhile, the merchants of Muziris shifted to Kochi.

For centuries, Kochi was the battleground of European powers for the mastery of the lucrative trade of the Indian west coast. The fortunes of political powers in Kochi were dictated by pepper. The Portuguese were the first to come in. Two years later, the adventurous mariner, the legendary Vasco da Gama himself landed in Kochi. The Portuguese erected a fort for the protection of their factory. Fort Manuel, or Manuel Kotta, named after the King of Portugal, was the first fortress constructed by the Europeans in India.

To the Portuguese must go the credit for the extensive scientific cultivation of coconut, ginger, and pepper, backbone of Kerala's economy today. Tobacco, cashew nut, and fruit cultivation were also introduced. The pineapple, for instance, is still called prithichakka in Malayalam, meaning Portuguese jackfruit. They were also responsible for today's burgeoning trade in coir.

The Dutch, full of energy and zeal, were next to enter the scene and succeeded in throwing out the Portuguese very soon. Helped by a laissez-faire policy and a self-stipulated dictum of "at least a 100% profit," Kochi saw a great resurgence of trade.

But the Dutch never endured too, and it was the British who came in next to play out their role. A great milestone was the direct export of pepper to England in 1636 and once again, power flowed from pepper.

For a hundred years and more, from 1795, Kochi received a gracious patronage of the British. They tried their best to develop the harbor at Kochi, the gateway of South India, but for long dismissed as a dream beyond the realm of hope for a rock-like barrier of sand blacked the approach to the port from the sea. No dredging proposition since the days of the Suez Canal project has aroused so much technical interest as the opening up of the Kochi Harbor.

It fell to the lot of an Admiralty Engineer Sir Robert Bristow to envision this "marvel of engineering". It was not an easy task for Bristow to construct a port in these serendipitous surroundings.

Kochi was declared a major port in 1936. With its opening, there was a complete reorientation of shipping and commercial activities on the Malabar Coast. With its year-round shipping facilities, it is the busiest port south of Bombay, lying as it does on the direct route to Australia and the Far East from Europe and serving the vast southern hinterland of industrial areas and plantations. It is a passenger port for the United Kingdom and America in South India. Moreover, it is one of the few ports of the world with all the three main forms of transport-land, sea, and air, centered in the same place.

TOURISTS ATTRACTIONS
St. Francis Church - Built in 1503 by the Portuguese Franciscan Friars, it is India's oldest European Church. Vasco da Gama's remains were buried here in 1524 but later the remains were taken to Libson, Portugal.

Chinese Fishing Nets - These huge cantilevered fishing nets were brought here by the traders from the court of Kublai Khan.

Mattancherry Palace (Dutch Palace) - (Open 1000- 1700 hrs daily except on Fridays) Built by the Portuguese in 1557 and presented to Raja Veera Kerala Varma of Kochi, the palace was renovated in 1663 by the Dutch. Mural Paintings depicting scenes from the Ramayana and the Mahabharata and some of the Puranic Hindu Legends are a real attraction. The palace also houses Dutch maps of old Kochi, royal palanquins, coronation robes of former Maharajas of Kochi as well as period furniture.

Jewish Synagogue (Open 1000 - 1200 hrs and 1500 - 1700 hrs- closed on Saturdays and Jewish holidays) Constructed in 1568, this is the oldest synagogue in the commonwealth. The Dutch rebuilt it in 1664. The main attractions include the hand painted, willow patterned floor tiles from Canton in China, a clock tower, Chandeliers, the great scrolls of the Old Testament, ancient scripts on copper plates etc.

Hill Palace Museum, Thripunithura (Open 0900 - 1200 hrs and 1400 hrs to 1630 hrs- closed on Mondays) 10 Kms from Kochi, Hill palace was the official residence of the erstwhile Kochi royal family and was built in 1865.

FAIRS & FESTIVALS
The deity of Shiva temple situated at the heart of Kochi is popularly known as Ernakulathappan. The annual festival is an eight-day event, and on all these days, Seeveli procession with nine tuskers and Panchavadyam are held. On the seventh evening, Pakalpooram is conducted. Kathakali, Ottanthullal, music concerts are presented by renowned artists. The festival concludes with the Arattu.

The Valanjambalam Devi Temple located in the heart of Ernakulam celebrates an annual festival for two days known as Thalapoli Utsavam. The procession with five caparisoned elephants accompanied by temple musical ensembles known as Ezhunnallippu takes place on both days.

HOW TO REACH
BY AIR - There are direct flight services to Delhi, Mumbai, Chennai, Goa, Bangalore, and Trivandrum from Kochi.

BY RAIL - Kochi is connected by rail to most of the important cities like Delhi, Mumbai, and Chennai.

BY ROAD - Kochi is connected by road with several tourist centers in India. It is 565 km from Bangalore, 223 km from Coimbatore, 848 km from Goa, 694 km from Madras, 470 km from Mysore, and 312 km form Ootacamund.

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