Monday, October 25, 2010

Lucknow - The city of Nawabs

The city of Nawabs (regional aristocrats), as Lucknow is often called, is today the capital of the largest state of India, Uttar Pradesh. The city has a glorious history and has been hailed as one of the centers of culture in Northern India. Even today, it is among the major highlights of Uttar Pradesh tourism, and the numerous tourist attractions in Lucknow indicate the high levels achieved by the engineers and architects of the time. Lucknow is known all over the world for the tehjeeb or the courteous behaviour of its people. It is a rare city. Few places in the world are endowed with such rich cultural traditions, as is this romantic city of the nawabs. Whether it is history, architecture, music, dance, handicrafts, etiquette, or sports, Lucknow has its own story to tell.

HISTORY
Surprisingly, the story of Lucknow began not so very long ago. Though the city traces its origin to the Suryavanshi dynasty of Ayodhya in ancient times, and derives its name from Lakshmana (the brother of Lord Rama), Lucknow actually came into prominence during the 18th century. In 1732, Muhammad Shah, one of the later kings of the once-powerful Mughal dynasty, appointed Mohammed Amir Saadat Khan, a Persian adventurer of noble lineage, to the viceroyalty of the area known as Avadh, of which Lucknow was a part. Saadat Khan was the founder of the famous dynasty known as the Nawab Wazirs-a dynasty that changed the face of this hitherto little-known place. Under his successors, Lucknow flowered as never before and all but became the cultural nerve center of northern India. The rapid growth of Lucknow dates from 1755 when the fourth Nawab, Asaf-ud-Daula, transferred the capital of Avadh from Faizabad to Lucknow and set about gifting to the city some of its most splendid architectural marvels, a tradition that was sustained by this successors. During this period, Lucknow also established its prominent place in the field of poetry, music, and dance. A colorful local culture, incorporating fairs and festivals, also flourished alongside. But what really set Lucknow apart from others was a certain elegance and grace of lifestyle. A romantic and courtly ambience became a part of the city. In fact, even today the city breathes history, and the sound of laughter and music, the tinkling of ankle bells and the mellifluous rendering of Urdu poetry (shairi) still echo and reverberate through the long corridors of time. Even today, when one wanders through the city, s/he will encounter the kind of refined courtesy and polish that seems to belong to another age.

Lucknow today, nestling on the banks of the river Gomti, is a modern, bustling metropolis and serves as the capital of the large north Indian state of Uttar Pradesh. But despite the changes it has undergone over the decades, it still retains the vestige of the culture that once made it one of the most celebrated cities of the land. It represents a harmonized blend of the old and the new; it has the advantages of a big, modern city, without any of the disadvantages. There is a profusion of parks and gardens redolent with nostalgia of another time. More importantly, residents of Lucknow have an extremely relaxed and laid-back attitude to life. So even though Lucknow is a big city today, there is none of the mad rush and hectic pace that one normally expects in a busy metropolis.

CULTURE
The city has been the cradle of the Urdu language which has flourished here as nowhere else. Lucknow has produced famous poets and writers in Hindi and Urdu, including Khwaja Haidar Ali Atish, Musahafi, Amir Meenai, Daya Shankar Kaul Nasim and Meer Taqi Meer. The city has also been a major center of Shiite culture and a genre of poetry called marsia, based on Shiite religion, has developed here. The dignified manners of the city’s residents had reached legendary heights during the late 19th century. It is believed that a resident of Luknow can curse someone in such a way that the person targeted would feel that he is being praised. That culture is almost redundant today, having got fused by many other, chiefly western influences. Famous exponents of music and dance have blossomed here. Kathak, a classical dance form of India, has been patronized by the rulers here, and stalwarts like Birju Maharaj have taken the art to the highest level. Singers like Begum Akhtar belong to lucknow.

ARCHITECTURE
The city witnessed a spur in building during the reign of the last Nawabs of Awadh. A large number of magnificent buildings were erected, many of which today form the core of tourism in Lucknow. Bara Imambara, Qaiser Bagh palace, Chattar manzil, and Daulat Khana are some of the best known buildings here. These buildings reflect the fusion of traditional Indian, Islamic, and later European elements, and are among the top tourist attractions in Lucknow.

CUISINE
Lucknow is well known for the amazing variety of cuisine available here. The city’s inhabitants loved their food, and a rich culinary tradition has evolved over centuries to make up the local cuisine of today. Biriyani, kebabs, rumali roti, and a vast range of delicious sweets make the tourists crave for more in the numerous food joints of the city. Western fast food joints also have their presence in the city.

TOURISTS ATTRACTIONS
Lucknow abounds with lovely monuments that tell the story of their time. For any visitor to this city, a trip to the various architectural wonders is an absolute must. Among the most important monuments are the Imambadas, the many mosques, the Roomi Darwaza, and the many splendid Mughal architectural marvels.

The Bada Imambada or Asafi Imambada (Imambada: patriarch's place) is an important tourist attraction of Lucknow. It was built by the then Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula in 1784 to provide succor to the famine-stricken people. Apart from the galleries in the interior, there is no woodwork anywhere. The interior vaulted hall, measuring 162 feet long, 53 feet broad, and 50 feet high is said to be one of the largest apartments of its kind in the world. From the outside, a staircase leads to a series of artfully designed labyrinths (bhoolbhulaiyan) where it is very easy to get lost! You could wander through the zigzag narrow galleries for hours without finding your way out! It's a very eerie sensation, moving towards the sunlit corridors that seem to be going out, only to find that you are actually deeper in the labyrinth! Most visitors therefore are only allowed inside with guides who are, quite amazingly, familiar with the maze. In fact, a favorite trick of all guides is to tell the visitor that he will be given 15 minutes to find his way out. Most visitors, needless to say, fail the test! There are also large underground passages that have now been blocked up. Next to the Imambada, in the same compound, is a majestic mosque and to its right, a row of cloisters concealing a huge well, which is said to be fathomless.

The Hussainabad or Chota Imambada is an exquisite building built by Nawab Muhammad Ali Shah in 1839 as a burial place for himself. As you enter the compound, you step into a large courtyard with a rectangular raised tank spanned by a small bridge. The beautiful Imambada, reflected in the placid water of the tank is one of the prettier sights in Lucknow. On either side of the courtyards stand a miniature version of the Taj Mahal. In one of them lies buried Zinat Asuja, the daughter of Muhammad Ali Shah and in the other are preserved the remains of her husband. The walls of the Imambada are embellished with calligraphic verses in Arabic. The interior of the Imambada houses an exotic assortment of objects ranging from elaborate chandeliers and gilded mirrors to tazias made of sandalwood, wax, and paper. A silver railing encloses the graves of Muhammad Ali Shah and his mother. During Muharram, both the Imambadas are ablaze with illumination.

Apart from the Bada Imambada, Asaf-ud-Daula also built the great Roomi Darwaza as a relief work during the famine of 1783. Said to be a facsimile of one of the gates of Constantinople, this soaring edifice, which is 60 feet high, can match any similar structure in point of beauty and splendor.

Then there is the Jama Masjid, a great mosque with two minarets and three domes, which stands to the west of the Hussainabad Imambada. It also owes its origin to Muhammad Ali Shah who started the construction but did not live to see it completed. That task was left to Begum Malika Jahan of the royal family.

The Hussainabad Clock Tower, rising to 221 feet, was started in 1880 and completed seven years later. The clock itself, which was designed by M. J. W. Wanson of London, is said to be the largest in India. Nearby is the Picture Gallery, a double-storey redbrick building built by Mohammed Ali Shah as a baradari. Today, it houses enormous portraits of all the Nawabs of Avadh, most of which were painted in the late 19th century by European artists. The portraits, which have recently been restored, give a good insight into the grand costumes and jewelry favored by the Nawabs.

The Residency was built in 1800 by Nawab Saadat Ali Khan for the British Resident at his court. Originally a very extensive and beautiful building, it received heavy shelling during 1857, when the First War Of Indian Independence took place. The inhabitants of the Residency faced a siege of 140 days before they were rescued by British troops. The red building is today in a dilapidated state and marks of cannon shots can be seen on almost every wall. Surrounded by shady green trees, the ruins of the Residency, stand still and quiet, in the afternoon sunshine. A brooding silence engulfs the ruins and one almost expects the ghosts of the dead to suddenly materialize and flit across the rooms.

A little distance away from the Residency is the glorious Chattar Manzil that served for a while as the palace of Begum Hazrat Mahal, the heroine of India's first fight for independence against the British. For English travelers in the 19th century, it seemed like something out of Arabian Nights! Today this splendid building houses a prosaic Drug Research Institute.

Among the other fabulous monuments of Lucknow are the Kaiser Bagh palaces, built by Wajid Ali Shah, the last Nawab of Avadh, who was robbed of his kingdom by the British and confined in Calcutta where he spent the last years of his life, pining for his beloved Lucknow. The buildings are said to have cost around 80 lakhs when they were built in 1850. Today a great deal of Kaiser Bagh has disappeared (the destruction took place in the 1857 uprising), but the name still applies to the historic quadrangle where Wajid Ali Shah, wearing the dress of a dramatic performer, used to participate in fairs. There are several small pavilions for the performance of plays. The surrounding yellow buildings called Lakhi were, at one time, the harem.

If one were to continue enumerating all the sights and sounds that Lucknow is famous for-like the La Martiniere School for Boys (housed in an Italian style building constructed by Major General Claude Martin for his own residence in 1793) or Nadan Mahal (one of the oldest structures of the city) or Moti Mahal (constructed by Nawab Saadat Ali Khan who used to watch the fights of large animals from Mubarak Manzil, which is in the same compound)-one could go on forever. Perhaps the wise thing to do is to explore this fascinating city on one's own. Apart from the well-known buildings, it is entirely probable that one may discover some concealed gems in the form of the Charbagh Railway Station, Biblapur Kothi, Dilkusha Palace, Zoological Gardens, State Museum, Tarawali Kothi, Khursheed Manzil, Shah Nazaf, Botanical Gardens (Sikandar Bagh), Badshahi Bagh, Aliganj Mahbir Temple, Kaiser Bagh, Mothi Roshan-ud-Daula, Lal Baradari, Lakshman Tila, Dargah of Hazrat Abbas, and the Alamgiri Mosque.

PLACES AROUND LUCKNOW
Nawabganj Lake: Located at a distance of 40 kilometers form Lucknow is the Nawabganj Lake. It is a colorful bird sanctuary. There is a motel run by the Tourist Department.

Kukrail: Fifteen kilometers from Lucknow is Kukrail, developed as a picnic spot by the Forest Department. There is a deer farm and a crocodile nursery. A children's park, cafeteria, and a rest house have also been built to facilitate the visitors here. One can see spotted deer, black buck, sambhar, and a variety of birds in their natural abode.

Chinhat Picnic Pavilion: At a distance of 15 kilometers from Lucknow is the Chinhat Picnic Pavilion. There is a rest house by the side of Kathauta Lake. One can also visit the neighborhood Chinhat pottery units.

HOW TO REACH
BY AIR - Lucknow is connected by daily flight from major towns and cities of India.

BY RAIL - Some well-known trains-Gomti Express (New Delhi to Lucknow), Neelachal Express (New Delhi to Puri), Vaishali Express (New Delhi to Barauni), Ganga-Jamuna Express (New Delhi to Lucknow), Sabarmati Express (Ahmedabad to Varanasi), and Avadh Assam Express (Guwahati to New Delhi)-connect Lucknow to the rest of India.

BY ROAD - Lucknow is also well connected to other cities of the country by road. The distances to some nearby cities are as follows: Delhi, 499 km; Jhansi, 340 km; Srinagar, 1394 km; Varanasi, 319 km.

Taxis, tongas, cycle rickshaws are available throughout the city. Charges vary according to the distance.

Friday, October 22, 2010

Mysore - City of Palaces

Mysore is located in the South Indian state of Karnataka around 140 km from Bangalore. The city extends from latitude 12°18' in the North to longitude 76°42' in the East. Mysore is well connected through road and rail networks with other parts of Karnataka and India.

BEST TIME TO VISIT
The weather in Mysore is pleasant throughout the year. The summers are warm and winters cool. April is the hottest month with the daily temperatures varying between 21°C and 34°C while in December, the coldest month here, the temperatures ranges from 16°C to 27°C. The average annual rainfall in the district is 761.9 mm. One can visit the city any time of the year but it is advisable to avoid the rainy seasons.

HISTORY
Mysore city was the capital of the old royal Mysore province. The word Mysore expands to "Mahishasurana Ooru" which means the town of Mahishasura. The story goes that the demon Mahishasura was killed by goddess Chamundeshwari atop the Chamundi hill near Mysore, hence the name. Ever since, the Mysore royal family has worshipped Chamundeshwari as the palace deity. Hills dedicated to her stand at the eastern end of Mysore town today.

The Wodeyar family ruled Mysore since 14th century except for a short period of 40 years when Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan were the rulers. Mysore has never failed to mesmerize the tourists with its quaint charm, rich heritage, magnificent palaces, beautifully laid-out gardens, imposing buildings, broad shady avenues and sacred temples. The charm of this city leaves no one untouched.

TOURISTS ATTRACTIONS
The Mysore Palace was built over one thousand years ago, in AD 897. Saracenic in style, the palace has both Hindu as well as Muslim influences. After a fire in 1897, Krishnaraja Wodeyar IV rebuilt the palace as we see it today, under the supervision of architect Henry Irwin. The main building is of massive gray granite with a tower covered by a gilded dome. A temple is situated within the royal courtyard.

St. Philomena's Church is one of the oldest churches in Mysore. Built in Gothic style, the church is among the largest in India. Stained glass windows and lofty towers give this cathedral an imposing look.

Shri Jayachamarajendra Art Gallery was established in 1875 and has a rare collection of some beautiful paintings from the same era. The gallery is located in Jagmohan Palace and exhibits paintings by Raja Ravi Varma, Svetsolav Roerich and traditional paintings from Mysore. The traditional gold leaf paintings and some exquisitely carved statues in sandalwood, ivory and stone are also exhibited in the gallery. The old paintings in the gallery have been done in mineral and vegetable dyes and paints.

The Mysore Zoo was set up by the royal family and houses some rare and exotic birds & animals. Situated amidst lush green surroundings, the zoo has acquired fame for breeding some rare animals in captivity.

The Chamundeshwari Temple is one of the noted Hindu places of worship and is situated atop the Chamundi Hill. On way to the Chamundi Hills is the Lalitha Mahal, a guest palace now converted into a heritage hotel.

PLACES AROUND MYSORE
Situated around 19 km North West of Mysore are the Krishna Raja Sagar Dam and the Vrindavan Garden. The garden attracts thousands of visitors every year who come to see its dancing musical fountains.

Fourteen km northeast of Mysore is Srirangpattnam, an island fortress and the capital of Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan. Tipu's summer palace, Daria Daulat, has now been turned into a museum.

Sangam, the confluence of two branches of the Cauvery River, is situated around 3 km off Srirangpattnam.

Ranganathittu is a bird sanctuary situated around 18 km off Mysore and allows a close view of exotic and common birds.

Somnathpur is situated around 35 km east of Mysore and is famous for the Hoysala Temples that are still in excellent condition.

Eighty-two kilometers away is the Cauvery Fishing Camp, a paradise for anglers where the mahaseer is found in abundance.

The Bandipur National Park is 80 km off Mysore on the way to Ooty and a famous tiger reserve. Spread over an area of 875 km, the park has a variety of animals such as the tiger, barking deer, tusker, and bison.

FAIRS & FESTIVALS
Dussehra in Mysore is a sight one would remember for a long time even after leaving the place. It is believed that the presiding deity of the city has the power to conquer evil forces and this has led the citizens to celebrate the festival with much gaiety and fervor.

The tradition of celebrating Dussehra with such grandeur started with the 16th-century rulers of Vijayanagar. After the disintegration of Vijayanagar Empire, the tradition was kept alive by rulers of Mysore and continues till now.

During the month of October and November, for ten days the Dussehra festival is celebrated and the city is at its colorful best with music and dance, Sports, Literary competitions, fairs and exhibitions all over. All this culminates in the Dussehra procession and a torchlight parade on the tenth day.

HOW TO REACH
BY AIR - The nearest airport from Mysore is 140 km away in Bangalore, from where one can take flights for most of the important cities in India.

BY RAIL - Mysore is connected with most of the metros like Delhi, Mumbai, Bangalore, and Chennai through regular trains.

BY ROAD - There is a good network of roads that connects Mysore to other important cities of the region. We would provide you all India tourist permit vehicles for the local transportations and also for the intercity drives too.

Friday, October 15, 2010

Dharamshala - Queen of hills

"Two and a half millennia after the Buddha walked on earth, another walks in his foot steps" - Welcome to Dharamshala, the land of Dalai Lama, a charming little town with elegant bungalow. Dharamshala enjoys the unique distinction of being the chosen home of the spiritual and temporal head of the Tibetan people.

LOCATION
Set against the magnificent backdrop of the towering Dhauladhar ranges, which rise up to more than 4000 meters, Dharamshala, which literally means The Holy Refuge, lies perched up on the high slopes in the upper reaches of the Kangra valley. Founded in 1855, it is one of the 80 hill resorts developed in the seventeenth century by the British to beat the heat and dust of the sweltering plains.

HISTORY
The colonial origin, the Tibetan influence and the Kangra air make an invigorating cocktail with a unique blend. Dharamshala stands out amongst the other hill-stations of India. It is also an archetypal getaway for the jaded city souls with thatched cottages nestling amidst thick coniferous forests. As one looks up, the green fringes merge with the snow-clad mountains and as your eyes shift downwards, the vast panorama of the Kangra valley embraces you. It is a no holds barred battle of the eye with the scenery and one wonders how much the eyes can behold this quiet rhapsody of the nature.

Is it a tale of two cities? The town is divided in flesh and soul into two halves, each with its own character. The lower Dharamshala is the main town at 1250 meters. The upper Dharamshala or McLeod Ganj from Dharamshala by road, it is a 10 kilometers drive, which takes almost the same time as you would, walking up the steep path. The only reason that you would like to visit lower Dharamshala would be to see the Kangra Art Museum, which has a treasure trove of the art and crafts of region.

The vestiges of the Raj dot the town - foremost is the church of St. John in the wilderness. There is a well-maintained, old graveyard. It reminds one of other old graveyards in hill-stations like Mussoorie and Shimla. These are perhaps the only peaceful places left in the hustle and bustle of these touristic places and your best bet if you are looking for peace!

TOURISTS ATTRACTIONS
McLeodGanj - the Little Lhasa is thick with the Tibetan cultural feel. It is an altogether different world where the crisp breeze is broken by chanting of the hymns along with the tinkling of the prayer wheels. The place was once full of hippies who have since moved out with the crowds inundating the town. For a research scholar, McLeodGanj offers a host of possibilities and to the not-so-scholarly souls, a cultural bonanza awaits.

First lets look at what has McLeodGanj got to offer to the hungry palette and then we will look into spiritual stuff! The Tibetan run restaurants give you an ample respite from dal, chapatti and rice that you get in most other places. If you are fond of momos, thukpa, and the likes, you have come to the right place. Tsongkha Restaurant, Yak Restaurant, Snowland and Shangrila are some of the place, which serve excellent food. A constant flow of Westerners has brought in its wake a number of restaurants and eateries, which offer the kind of food that is not so commonly available in India.

ABODE OF THE DALAI LAMA
But Dharamshala is better known as Dalai Lama's abode and Tibet's Government-in-exile after the Chinese invasion of Lhasa in October 1959. Needless to say, a visit to Dharamshala would be considered irreverent without a peek into the various monasteries dotting the hillsides. A visit to the Namgyal Monastery, ensconcing the Center of Tibetan Studies is nothing short of mandatory. 'Tsuglagkhang', opposite the Dalai Lama's residence reminds one of Lhasa - it contains large gilded bronzes of the Buddha, Avalokiteswara and Padmasambhava.

The other places of interest are the Museum at the Nechung Monastery which is three kilometers downhill on the way to Dharamshala and the Norbulingka Institute which has become a major center of learning. You could see young artists learning Thangka Painting.

When the Dalai Lama is in residence, he heads the prayers. For an audience with the Dalai Lama who is also believed to be the reincarnation of Buddha, special permission needs to be taken with a proper request in writing at the security office near Hotel Tibet. The best time to see his him is after the Tibetan New Year, which falls in March. The living deity gives spiritual discourses for 10 days.

The hotels and guest houses are all full at this time of the year when Dharamshala is at its colorful best. If you really want to savor the place, the best thing to do is to stay at a family run place. Himachal Tourism also runs a few comfortable rest houses to suit all budgets.

If one is into meditation, there are a number of classes held by monks for the beginners, as well as advance practitioners. Tushita Meditation Center is one such outfit, which offers clean residential accommodation as well. There are also a number of alternate medicine doctors in the little town. It is not unusual to find monks from the Western countries.

PLACES AROUND DHARAMSHALA
After satisfying your palette and your soul, you could go out for a nice long walk or an arduous trek. Bhagsunath, three kilometers away is an easy option after momos and beer. There is a temple, a spring and also a waterfall. An annual fair is held here in the month of September. It is worthwhile walking up to Naddi, which offers a splendid view of the Dhauladhar ranges. If you are adventurous enough, the Mountaineering Institute can organize treks, rock climbing and rappelling. They normally would like to do this for groups of 10 or above.

However, the best thing about Dharamshala is the easygoing pace, the peaceful expression on everybody's face. It is a place where you would like to do the ordinary things in life, where you would like to let yourself loose and forget about hectic schedules and maddening self imposed deadlines!